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The Prong Collar

 
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Millet
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Joined: 10 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 8:10 am    Post subject: The Prong Collar Reply with quote

Prong collars and some information about their use.

Prong Collars

Two types. One on the right has a swivel so the chain doesn't get twisted at the point where the leash is snapped to the collar.
To put this collar on one's dog, one must take one of the prong links and disconnect it from another link that is just like it. Like a string of paper clips. You unfasten one and take the opened collar and place it fasten it around the dog's neck so it is high on the neck. It should fit so the links are not pressing against the dog's neck with any pressure if the dog is not doing anything. For adjustments, You may need to remove or add links in order to get the perfect fit. Rethread the opened link back into it's mate.





A close-up of a collar with a clasp or snap on the chain end.
Another variation of the prong collar, which I prefer, is the one with a snap or special link opener that is on the chain part of the collar. This makes it easier to slip the collar off and on.

Not all collars with a snap on the chain part have the same kind of snap and you might find a variety of snap or chain-type closure that you prefer. Some are better made than others - remember that any collar is only as strong as it's weakest point.

As a safety measure -- Some prong collar users will put an additional slip or buckle collar on the dog and thread their leash snap through the rings of both prong and the second collar -- so if the prong collar comes loose for any reason, they still have control of the dog.


An Anatolian with a slip collar (as a safety) and prong collar worn together. (It should be fitted higher on the neck).







A Study on Prong Collars was done in Germany:

100 dogs were in the study. 50 used choke and 50 used prong.
The dogs were studied for their entire lives. As dogs died, autopsies were performed.
Of the 50 which had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea, or back. 2 of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma.
Of the 50 which had prongs, 2 had injuries in the neck area, 1 was determined to be genetic. 1 was caused by trauma.


A short list of people/dog teams that have benefited from the use of prong collars.

Small people with large dogs.
Any person with a dog that seems calm but suddenly bursts into action in some circumstances.
People with dogs that are pullers. (dogs choke/gag on a slip collar or ignore a buckle collar)
Disabled people with limited strength or range-of-motion to properly 'snap' correct a dog wearing a slip collar. A light touch is all that is needed. Sometimes the collars are put into a cloth tube (like a scrunchy).
Persons with dogs with damaged trachea or collapsing tracheas.
Persons 'fine-tuning' a dog's responses to commands.
Bouncy puppies that are difficult to control in any other collars.
Walking more than one of these dogs at the same time -- you don't want ride your belly like a skate board while 200 or 300 some pounds of Anatolian in a team or troika take off with you.
Walking a large protective dog at night in an area where the normally calm dog is walking high on his toes, ready to react before you are. He is on 'predator alert'.

Certainly not an all inclusive list.

NOT every person/dog team is right for a prong collar, or a slip collar for that matter. Halti, Gentle Leader and other trademarked collars might do the best job for you and your dog in different situations. Some dogs with damaged tracheas have to stay in a harness (there are a few varieties that discourage pulling).

You should be able to get the type of work you want from a dog if you are using the right tools. You should be able to control and work with your dog without constantly 'reminding' him what to do... (nag nag nag nag, jerk jerk jerk pull) Nagging a dog on a slip(choke) chain looks bad. Continuous jerking, whether it be in a buckle or slip collar just hints that another type of collar, training method, or tool should be put to good use.

Nagging is not the same as training because the dog is IGNORING your corrections! You are effectively training the dog to ignore you. (this goes hand-in-hand with nagging 'sit-sit-sit-sit-SIT!') We all remember what nagging does to us. It makes me shut down (block it out) or fight back. Our dogs are quite similar in their behavior.

Anyway, every collar has a correct fit. Be sure to learn what that 'fit' is and as your pup grows, get new collars to maintain that fit.


Personal Notes

A prong collar puts power-steering into the handling of a dog, and if the handler continues to maintain an alpha relationship with the dog in training, good behaviors learned while on the prong can be transferred successfully to a milder collar.
I have muscle atrophy, spasticity and some vertigo and really do appreciate the handling power that a prong gives me when I need to work with someone else's dog, or one of my own that just needs a little reminder that I'm on the other end of the leash. I've only used prong collars for training in certain circumstances and with certain dogs. Some of my dogs have never been in a prong collar; some of them have for limited periods of time and under certain circumstances. So while I am giving all this information on prong collars, understand that I do NOT use it on every dog.

I think of the prong collar as a tool that can increase the level of safety and control for both dog and handler.

Some of the puppy classes I have been to have had 95 percent of the pups in buckle collars and the few odd ones out put into mini-prong collars with excellent results. A thick necked chow puppy comes to mind (3 months old). By 4-7 months, many of the novice pups I've seen in classes are on some variety of slip collar, (some are going into their adolescent phases) and a few of those are on prongs.
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Bowowee
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Joined: 12 Jul 2007
Posts: 20

PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Napakadaling magtrain ng aso pag ito ang gamit.
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